Unlocking the mysteries of A313

A313 is an anti-ageing phenomena that’s been used in France as a retinol and tretinoin alternative for many years.

A successor to Avibon, it’s a topical treatment that features a unique formulation revered for promoting a more youthful-looking complexion.

The high concentration of Vitamin A derivatives and the waterless formulation make this product a potent anti-ager. It promotes overall skin rejuvenation by stimulating cell turnover, promoting collagen synthesis and normalising oil production.

A313 is not strictly a retinol but a retinyl ester. It’s still classed as a retinoid, a group of active compounds derived from Vitamin A that deliver multiple benefits for the skin.

I decode the mysteries of this French retinoid by answering all the questions we commonly get asked about this best-selling product.

Hopefully, this provides everything you need to know about A313, and how it works, how to use it and how to get the best results.

A313 Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

What is A313?

A313 is a topical cream that can be used as an alternative to retinol and prescription tretinoin products.

Formulated by Pharma Development in France, it contains a high concentration of retinyl esters, a form of Vitamin A, that renews the skin and makes it appear visibly younger.

Although it’s called a cream, A313 is really more of a balm that you apply at night as the last step in your skin care routine. It goes to work while you sleep, being converted in a number of stages to retinoic acid.

Retinoic acid works its magic on your skin by acting on a cellular level. Overall, it acts like a conductor, orchestrating various processes to promote more resilient and younger-looking skin.

Given its texture, A313 locks in moisture so you awaken to super soft and plump skin.

With ongoing use, it stimulates skin cells to behave like those of younger skin, speeding up cell turnover and generating the production of collagen. This is what leads to its skin rejuvenating effects.

What are the benefits of A313?

A313 rejuvenates the complexion the skin by:

• reducing the look of fine lines and wrinkles
• improving skin texture
• fading visible hyperpigmentation
• helping manage mild acne
• reducing the look of enlarged pores

Sometimes it’s also used to improve the look of the skin condition keratosis pilaris. But this is not my preferred product for improving keratosis pilaris. You can learn more about how you can deal with those unpleasant little red bumps here.

How does A313 work?

Retinyl esters need to convert in the skin to become retinoic acid to be effective. The rate at which this occurs is not entirely clear.

We have decades of clinical data showing the benefits of retinoic acid, but only limited research on retinyl esters.

Retinoic acid is a multifunctional chemical compound that was first patented in 1957 and then commercialised for medical use in the treatment of skin conditions in 1962.

This remarkable molecule transformed clinical dermatology given it works at the cellular level.

Retinoic acid has been scientifically proven to:

• Bind to receptors: Retinoic acid is taken up by specific receptors in the nucleus of skin cells, which unlocks gene expression.
• Boost gene expression: By influencing how genes are expressed in the cell, it essentially controls the production of various proteins and enzymes that play a key role in skin health.
• Speed cell turnover: Dead skin cells are shed more quickly, revealing the newer, brighter skin underneath.
• Stimulate collagen production: Collagen is a structural protein in the skin that gives the skin volume and makes it look plump, helping reduce the formation of fine lines and wrinkles.
• Reduce oil production: Less oil secretion by the skin’s glands leads to fewer clogged pores and breakouts.

Overall, retinoic acid acts like a cellular conductor, orchestrating various processes to promote skin that looks and functions better.

Is A313 the same as retinol?

A313 is not exactly the same as a retinol.

A313 contains retinyl esters. These retinyl esters get converted in the skin to retinol, then to retinaldehyde then to retinoic acid, which gets taken up by special receptor cells in the skin.

The conversion process varies from person to person and is not necessarily a bad thing.

Prescription retinoids, such as tretinoin, are notoriously irritating, given they get taken up quickly by the skin, mostly within 30 minutes.

Retinyl esters convert more slowly and can be a better choice for some people, especially those with sensitive skin.

Because of the conversion required, A313 contains a higher percentage of retinyl esters than you would typically find in a retinol cream. This has been done to compensate for the imperfect and incomplete conversion that occurs in the skin.

Most retinol creams contain 0.1-0.5 % retinol.

Additionally, the formulation base of A313 serves to intensify absorption, accounting for its powerful effects.

Is A313 the same as tretinoin?

A313 is not the same as tretinoin (Retin A).

Tretinoin is a prescription product that contains retinoid acid. It’s more potent and offers faster results than A313 because retinoid acid is immediately recognised and taken up by receptors in the skin.

Tretinoin needs to be prescribed by a medical professionals and comes in strengths typically ranging from 0.025% to 0.1%. This is because it can have more severe negative side effects.

Being a prescribed product, tretinoin is regulated as a medical product and therefore undergoes much stricter testing and quality control.

A313 contains retinyl esters, a form of Vitamin A, that needs to be broken down and converted to retinoic acid by the skin before it becomes active.

A313 has a combined retinyl ester concentration of 0.12%, which is considered a moderate dose.

This over-the-counter product is easier to gain access to and works more gently and slowly.

Interestingly, A313 is a pharmacy-dispensed product in France that comes with a pregnancy warning.

What are the drawbacks of A313?

Just like retinol and other retinoids, A313 needs to be eased into your skin care routine to avoid drawbacks. However it’s good to know that the effects are typically mild and transient.

You may notice dryness, itching, flaking and redness. This is called retinisation and usually lasts about four weeks. The best way to alleviate these effects is to ensure you apply the A313 to fully dry and to step up your moisturisation. Applying a hydrating serum or light moisturiser prior to using the A313 also helps.

Your skin will be more sensitive to sunlight, so it’s essential that you regularly apply sunscreen every day.

A313 retinol alternative should not be used by anyone who is pregnant or breast-feeding.

Who is A313 best for?

A313 is gentler than prescription retinoids but still delivers the benefits of retinoids without all the downsides and the potential for ongoing skin sensitisation.

A313 can be used by most people but is especially suitable for:

• younger people who don’t need potent retinoids
• those who don’t want to be using stronger retinoids
• those with sensitive or easily irritated skin
• those with rosacea or skin prone to redness
• anyone who wants a super affordable and effective OTC retinoid

How long does it take for A313 to work?

This depends on what skin concern you’re trying to address, your individual skin type and how often you’re using the product.

Every day our bodies and skin are getting that little bit older and developing more signs of ageing. This is due to intrinsic and extrinsic ageing.

While genes a key determinant of how we age, we can slow this process by eating a healthy diet that’s rich in antioxidants, getting enough exercise, reducing stress and getting adequate quality sleep each night, as well as protecting our skin cells from the damaging effects of UV and pollutants.

Topical products can play a helpful role, however it’s important to have realistic expectations about what cosmetic products can do.

Here is a general guide to how long it takes for A313 to work:

• Initial adjustment (1-2 weeks): Your skin may experience dryness, redness or flaking initially, as it adjusts.
• Visible improvement (6-12 weeks): With consistent use, you may start noticing some improvement in skin texture, tone or mild breakouts.
• Significant results (3-6 months): Fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and skin firmness take months of consistent use.

How do you use A313?

Make sure you apply A313 correctly and safely by following these simple steps:

• Apply a lightweight hydrating serum or moisturiser and allow to fully absorb, usually about 15 minutes.
• Dispense a pea-sized amount of A313 and warm with your fingertips.
• Dot all over the face, avoiding the eye contour area and corners of the mouth.
• Gently smooth into the skin.
• Regularly apply sunscreen during the day as retinoids make the skin more sensitive to the sun.

Moisturiser applied after the A313 will not absorb well and will sit on the skin, creating a heavy feeling.

What to avoid when using A313?

Many people who use A313 cream for the first time are surprised by their skin’s response, even those who’ve used retinoids before.

When introducing this balm, avoid using other retinoids or direct acids, such as Vitamin C, in the same skin care routine. Also avoid the use of physical exfoliants, such as scrubs, opting instead for gentle exfoliation no more than 1-2 times a week.

Help your skin overcome any possible irritation and dryness by stepping up your use of soothing, calming, hydrating and repairing ingredients.

After four weeks of using A313, you can start to add in direct acids and Vitamin C, but opt to use them in the morning.

You’re also going to want to avoid using other retinoids in your skin care routine, as this would be doubling up.

How often do you use A313?

A313 should be applied at night and is most effective when used every night. But you must start slowly to give your skin time to adjust.

When first introducing A313, you want to maximise the benefits and minimise any potential side effects. Start with two applications in the first week. Increase frequency by one application a week, aiming for nightly use. Increase the use of soothing and hydrating toners and serums. Make sure to use a moisturiser morning and evening to offset dryness and possible flaking. And don’t forget to regularly apply your sunscreen during the day.

Give your skin a month or so to adapt. Be sure to cut back on usage if skin becomes very dry, itchy or sensitive.

If you experience severe irritation or have an allergic reaction, discontinue use immediately and consult a doctor. 

Where do you buy A313?

A313 has become recognised around the world and is highly sought after. But it isn’t widely available. You can get it in pharmacies in France, but in Australia and other countries you’ll need to look at online stockists.

A note of caution. Always check the retailer’s reputation and legitimacy. Given A313’s great popularity, it’s become the target of fakers. There are many fake versions being sold by disreputable retailers either directly or on the major online marketplaces.

Also consider how the product has been transported and stored. Old product or product that’s been heat-affected by being transported by sea or stored in a hot environment isn’t going to do your skin any good, and may even be harmful.

In Australia and New Zealand, you can buy it from Skin Clinica.

We guarantee the authenticity, freshness and quality of our A313.

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Yours truly in better skin

Anna Marie is a skin care professional and a graduate of one of Australia’s leading dermal institutes, the Australasian College of Cosmetic Dermal Science. She has previously developed her own skin care products focusing on actives and botanical extracts.